Hodka - Beauty in the middle of nowhere

No elaborate entrances, signages or roads lead you to the famous Shaam-e-Sarhad resort in this village called Hodka. Situated at a distance of about 60odd kms from Bhuj, Hodka is very close to the white desert. 

From Bhuj, you take the airport road and keep going straight till you reach Bhirandiyara and take a left from there. Bhirandiyara, is the place where the police outpost is situated, where you get passes to visit the white desert. All people of armed forces or for that matter ex-servicemen do not require to take these passes. In peak season like that during the Rann Utsav the queue is pretty long to get passes. Little before this outpost are the stalls selling Bhirandiyara's famous mava. Definitely a must try, go in for a cup hot from the stove, garnished with rose petals. Most of the people in Banni grasslands are cattle herders, no wonder u get such a yummy dish.

Now coming back to Hodka, it is a cultural village famous for craft like mirrors,lamps mud work especially on their huts. Silver jewelry from Hodka is also very famous. Their decorated huts are called bhungas. We didn't get an opportunity, however one can directly visit the huts and interact with the local artisans and buy their wares. 

Shaam-e-Sarhad (Sunset across the border) is a model resort run directly by the village panchayat of Hodka. It was set up in association with the UNDP and the Tourism Ministry of India. Inspired by the success of this place, many more have sprung up in the vicinity.

The wonderful Shaam e Sarhad

 Shaam-e-Sarhad cannot in the strict sense be called a resort, it does't have many of the facilities that customers ask for, like a swimming pool or other activities like sports etc. However, they do offer you activities to keep you occupied, like star gazing lying down on your charpoys in the open, enjoy local music or dance, or view some magical sunrises and sunsets or listen to stories of Kutch and the wonderful place that it is, from the staff of the resort. 

The tent we stayed in . Cozy is the word!!!

The decor of the resort and the fresh homely food they offer can sweep you off the floor. The accommodation in Bhungas or tents is again so unique and colorful. We visited this place in winters and even in the thick of winter, their handmade razais kept us really warm, even though we stayed at a tent and not a bhunga. These (bhungas) are their traditional houses and are made out of mud, to keep you insulated from the chill.

The colorful dining area

Piping hot food being served 

Do u need to ask for more

Food was the best part of the resort. It was totally local, bajro ni rotla, subji with spring onion, jaggery, khichdi, kadhi and halwa, all freshly prepared and heated on coal and served with loads of love. Youth of the village take active part in the day today activities of the resort. The attire of the men in this part of Kutch is so much similar to the attire of Kashmiris and Pakistanis. Initially when I saw them, mistook them to be a part of some group from Pakistan. Goes to show how much similarities exist between the 2 countries, yet this animosity.

Local musical rendition

Sunrise at Shaam e Sarhad

This resort is operational only between 15 Oct - 31 Mar of any year. The summers in this part of the country is too harsh for the tourists and during rains the white desert is filled with water from the Kori creek. The tents and temporary structures at the resort are dismantled by the end of the season. When the rain stops, the resort needs to be redone, its flooring etc and then they are ready to welcome their guests. I have never heard of something like this. When the resort is not operational, the staff of the resort turn to their original professions of being a maldhari or a cattle grazer.

One of the staff, Pandhi Bhai told me that there is a huge cattle fair held right in front of the resort. He also showed me his village Meerawali (I am not sure of the name) and

Paandhi Bhai

said only rugged 4 wheelers can drive to his village. His wife and daughters undertake razai making and embroidery work. I wonder how these people go about their daily lives in the normal course. I was very keen on visiting a village and interact with people there, but a pressing issue with our Safari made us take a quick turn back to Bhuj.

From Hodka, one can visit the white desert at Dhordo, bird sanctuary at Chhari Dhand, Than monastery or make a day excursion to Kalo dungar or to Lakhpat (more on this,in my future post.)





Shaam e Sarhad: Shaam-e-Sarhad Village Resort
                              Endogenous Tourism Project
                              Hodka Village, Banni
                               Bhuj (Kutch) – Gujarat
                               PIN – 370 510
                              Email : hodka.in@gmail.com (Bookings can be done over mail)