Lakhpat- The last frontier

This was our day 4 in Kutch. We had to extend our stay by a day because of the problem with our Tata Safari. Nevertheless, I am happy that we got to spend a day more in this beautiful place. We had planned to visit Lakhpat straight from Shaam-e-Sarhad at Hodka. However, we had to come to Bhuj and stay at yet another lovely place , Khamir which stands for Kutch Heritage Arts Music Information and Resources (more on this in my next post)

Lakhpat is around 130kms from Bhuj and the roads leading to this place are excellent. Drive through the city of Bhuj, pass through Nakhathrana, Rawapar and Mata nu Madh. We made a small stopover here, it being the 01st of January and thought we take blessings of the deity to make more opportunities to explore and travel. This is the temple of Ashapura Mata and the kuldevi (family deity) of the Jadeja rulers of Kutch. The roads leading to Lakhpat are absolutely desolate with an occasional Border Security Truck/jeep passing by. Some wildlife sighting is a possibility. We could spot a fox scurrying to cross the road. In fact so empty that we could dare do this.

Right in the middle of the road

Lakhpat is a walled town with a gurudwara, some monuments of historical importance and a BSF check post. Long time back, before the forces of nature pushed river Indus into Pakistan, Lakhpat was a prosperous port earning revenues in one lakh Kutchi kori , hence the name. This was the main port from where Muslims went to Hajj and Madina. Guru Gobind, the sikh guru is said to have spent time here when he was on the way to Mecca. His footwear is still preserved at the Gurudwara. This Gurudwara is the only place where you can stay or have a meal in Lakhpat.

One side of the fort is just across the wide expanse of the whiteness of the Rann. You can climb all the way up and get some awesome views of the Rann. There is a BSF post just ahead on the fort. We could go up till them and chat with them, who told us how difficult the terrain is. Hats off to these guys who go any length to keep our borders secure. They told us that during rains, entire area is filled with water and as the winter appears, water recedes leaving a white sheet of salt behind. 

The fort wall that runs all along the Rann

The unlimited Rann

Other than these, the town is almost non-existent with just around 500 inhabitants who struggle with their lives, in absence of basics of life like water, electricity etc. All supplies including groceries would have to be bought from the nearest town. The town is sleepy with absolutely no activity. But it is this inactivity that gives it a sense of freshness. 

The tombs of Phir Ghaus Mohammed Kubo and  Abu Tarab Dargah are beyond words and the small houses and narrow lanes wait for someone to come and hear their story.  I wish I could spend an entire day at Lakhpat and get to interact with some people.

Phir Ghaus Mohammed Kubo

Abu Tarab Dargah

This picture best depicts the fallen glory of the city of Lakhpat. There is tremendous tourism potential in the town , which can be explored to provide the dwellers of the town, a decent source of living. At the same time also think, if Lakhpat would remain the same if bus hoards of tourists just descended here. Security concerns also remain. 

This was the most beautiful place in our entire 3 week road trip. The vastness of the Rann, the sleepiness of the town, the monuments that have many tales to tell and the freshness in the air, all of them make Lakhpat, truly a gem.

As Lakhpat silently stands testimony to the changed course of its present and future, we move on to the final place on our travel map, Koteshwar.